An autumnal negroni for your next dinner party
One reason to give in and buy those pretty bunches of local grapes
The idea of a grape cocktail scared me a bit. Of course we drink cocktails made with aromatized wines, but I’d never actually gone to the farmers market to buy a gorgeous bunch of table grapes—the dark-toned Concord ones, which taste of purple jelly—with the idea of making them into a beverage.
My husband made some jokes about Manischewitz. This is not that.
This cocktail is softly grapey but also the sort of fancy bitter drink you’d get at a restaurant to go with expensive olives or salty crunchy snacks. It’s a stunning magenta color. And it’s perfect for a fall gathering.
Let’s do a little Q&A.
Q: I’ve been living under a rock. What’s a negroni?
A: I’m glad you’re with us now. A negroni is a classic cocktail made with gin, bitter Campari, and sweet vermouth. For awhile they were so popular that people were getting tattoos of the ratio of each ingredient.
This version skips the vermouth, though, opting instead for a syrup you make with Concord grapes, sugar, and a little water. It also adds lemon juice for a touch of tartness. The recipe comes from the folks behind the bars at The Tin Building by Jean-Georges in New York. (They also have pretty good bread there, btw.)
Q: How hard is it to make that Concord grape syrup?
A: It’s not difficult, but definitely takes more care than twisting open a bottle. That’s part of why this drink is so nice for serving to friends—you took the trouble to make them something they haven’t tried before, something fitting for the season.
Basically, you’re taking Concord grapes (yes, they have seeds, it’s fine) off the stem, putting in a little pot with some water and sugar and bringing to a simmer, smashing as they warm. Then it sits, and then you strain it, pressing the grapes against the strainer so they give up their flavor. Add a little lemon and tuck it into the fridge.
Q: Can I make this drink ahead?
A: You’re asking exactly the right person. The syrup lasts about a week. And while this drink was originally designed to be served one by one, I’ve adapted it a bit, batching it up with dilution so that you can make it before your guests arrive, let it chill, and then just pour over ice. Big ice cubes are nice for serving if you have some silicone molds.
Q: Do I really have to use a scale?
A: The correct question is: Do I really get to use a scale? Measuring spherical objects like grapes in cups is absurdly inaccurate. A digital scale is a fantastic tool in the kitchen, and makes both syrup-making and baking easier and quicker, since you don’t have to fuss with individual measuring cups. I’ve used this one from OXO for years.
Q: Do I need to find Navy Strength gin?
A: Navy Strength gin is stronger than your average bottle—the Sipsmith VJOP they use at the Jean Georges restaurants is 57.7% ABV. (Sipsmith’s excellent flagship London Dry is 41.6% ABV.) Making this drink with higher-proof gin gives it more oomph, a crispness and sharp brightness that stands out.
But to be honest, I really liked the version I made with a more standard-proof gin. The lower-proof version is more supple, and maybe, actually, more fall-appropriate.
Don’t run out and buy higher-proof gin just for this, but if you have it, try the drink both ways and see what you prefer. Sounds like a good excuse for a party.
Q: Wait, are you celebrating something?
A: Why yes! The launch of my new cooking podcast, The Dinner Plan, TOMORROW! Please follow on Spotify or your preferred podcast streamer and subscribe to The Dinner Plan newsletter to get the recipes and cookbook recommendations we mention in each episode.
Okay, here’s the drink.
Batched Concord Negroni
Adapted from Jean-Georges Restaurants
A note on the measurements: Weighing your ingredients makes sense here. For me, the correct amount of grapes was a little less than 1.75 cups—one small bunch—but grapes don’t fit neatly in a measuring cup. The sugar is about a heaped 1/3 cup, but again, you’ll be more accurate by weighing; the lemon juice in the syrup is just shy of 3/4 oz. What a mess. Use a scale.
Be sure you plan ahead here—the beauty of a batched drink like this is that you don’t have to fuss at the last minute. Make the syrup the day before. Mix the drink up at lunchtime. You’ll be prepared and calm by the time your guests arrive.
Makes 8
For the Concord Syrup:
250 g Concord Grapes, picked, washed, and drained well
75 g organic sugar
77.5 g (2.75 oz) filtered water
15 g Fresh Lemon Juice
For the Cocktail:
8 oz. gin (they use Navy Strength gin at The Tin Building bars)
6 oz. Campari
6 oz. chilled Concord Syrup
4 oz. lemon juice (from about 4 lemons)
3/4 oz. Peychaud’s bitters
2 oz. filtered water
Lemon twists, extra Concord grapes, and cocktail picks for serving
First, make the syrup: Combine Concord grapes, sugar, and water in a pot and bring to a simmer. Stir well and remove from heat. (I did mash the grapes as they got warm and swollen.) Rest covered for 15 minutes. Pass through a fine-mesh strainer, pushing for total extraction. Strain a second time to avoid getting any sediment. Mix in 15g lemon juice and store refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Makes about 1 cup.
To make the cocktail: In a pitcher or glass carafe that will hold 30 oz. of liquid, combine gin, Campari, 6 oz. chilled Concord syrup, lemon juice, Peychaud’s bitters, and filtered water. Stir well. Refrigerate until really chilled (this will take a few hours depending on how cold your ingredients were) or up to 10 hours.
To garnish with Concord grapes, place grapes on cocktail picks (enough for each person.) You can thread a lemon twist on each pick as well.
When ready to serve, stir contents of pitcher well; mixture may have separated slightly. Place large a ice cube in each rocks glass. Pour stirred cocktail mixture over the ice, twist a lemon twist over each drink to express oils, and rub the rim of each glass. Garnish with grapes on cocktail picks as desired.